Traveling While Black: Albania
Marlie and Anthony here! We are excited to have a guest blog post from Anaiis, author of the Orange Trails Blog! Read her experiences in Albania!
Face to Face with Being Black in Albania
It’s time to take a trip to the Balkans! That’s right. Whatever you’ve heard about Eastern Europe, it’s time to adjust your perspective. I am Anaiis, the author of Orange Trails blog, and I’m here to discuss the Black perspective of travel in Albania. I have been traveling internationally since 2021, and I’m always excited to share my experience so that you can step into the world of travel with the right guidance.
The Biggest Adjustments
The European mindset has seeped into my life—I now simply "work" rather than maintain the "work twice as hard" mentality I grew up with in America.
I chose Albania to wait out my 90-day period between visas as a digital nomad, finding it the perfect place to rest and relax while my paperwork is in the works for France.
When I told my American friends about my three-month stay in Albania, I was met with mixed reactions. While most were curious and excited, some expressed concern. The familiar question inevitably surfaced: "Is the country safe for Black people?"
There's a stereotype that Balkan people are harsh, racist, and unpleasant—a perception I've heard not just from Americans but from European Union citizens as well. I don’t find this to be true and I can confidently say that Albania is a safe space for everyone.
Cab drivers, nail technicians, and grocery store clerks alike often tell me that Albania is a non-judgmental country. The people are curious and welcoming, and in my two months here, I haven't experienced any racial discrimination.
The main differences to consider are cultural, particularly regarding beauty and self-care products. If you're planning your usual Saturday night routine with some shea butter, hair mask, and incense, you might need to adjust those plans. Products like cocoa butter, leave-in conditioner, and shea butter aren't easily available here. I recommend bringing your favorite melanated products for an extended stay in beautiful Albania.
I've managed to find a helpful keratin oil in a grocery store that keeps my scalp from being completely dry, but I wish I'd brought more supplies from home.
Additionally, local beauty supply stores rarely stock makeup shades for darker skin tones. You won't find many melanated beauties rushing to Albanian stores for these supplies, so it’s understandable as to why the stock is nonexistent.
Next, we have the stares. This is a serious culture shock that, if you’re not used to it, might be heavily uncomfortable. People stare. Old people. Young people. Babies. Toddlers. Everyone stares no matter where you go and it’s something that you have to get used to. The people don’t mean it to be rude or impolite; they’re genuinely in wonder so try not to take it too personally.
When you see other black travelers, an unspoken bond is born
My French boyfriend came to visit me in Albania for a few days and I tried to explain to him the bonding ‘nod’ that black brothers and sisters give each other when we’re in spaces of people that don’t look like us. He didn’t believe me until we were in Tirana admiring the architecture and an older black woman was walking by. We locked eyes and smiled at each other. She was from London and I was from America and we silently blessed each other for the small exchange of familiarity. He couldn’t believe it but this feeling can bring you a sense of joy.
Albania is a small country
Albania is a country where you can visit the sea, the mountains, and the city all in one or two days. Renting a car is very simple and some of the rentals even pick up the car from your location when you’re ready to depart.
The sea is a major attraction. I’m visiting in the winter and I’m so grateful that I’m not bombarded by overpriced luxuries and tourists, but be aware. If you do decide to come during Albania’s peak season, you may find the prices to be higher. You may have issues sending texts or using data on the streets because of the overcrowded cellular towers. Finding a place on the beach with fewer people can be a bit of a challenge, but the exploration and experience is one to be had.
English
Most people are very versed in basic English. They can tell you the price of things, where to go, and if they accept cash or not. I’ve used my Google Translate a few times when asking more complex questions, but I feel comfortable approaching people even though I don't speak much Albanian.
Good words to know in Albanian are:
Përshëndetje- Hello (pronounced PER-SHEN-DENT-EE-YAY)
Faleminderit- Thank You (pronounced FAHL-EN-MEN-DAIRY)
Ciao- Goodbye (pronounced CHEE-YOW)
So don’t be scared! Albania is a very welcoming place to visit and as someone who is melanated, you will find your place.
Places to visit
Kruje Castle
This castle holds a rich Albanian history, highlighting the successes of Skanderbeg. The view is unbelievable as Kruje is a mountain city and you can see so much from the top.
Vlora
This is a beautiful beach city with lots of cute places to eat and explore. The old city has some sculptures and universities.
Durres
This is where I’m spending the majority of my stay. It’s right by the sea and the people are quite friendly. This is a mix of beach town and suburb. It’s a great city to relax and enjoy coffee and the sea.
Tirana
Tirana is the capital of Albania which means there’s a lot more to do here. This is a city vibe for those who like the feeling of being out on the town. There are plenty of great restaurants like Salt Tirana, and even a city square full of people.
Things to note
Albania is slowly becoming a debit/credit card welcoming society but most places exclusively take cash. Uber doesn’t exist here so you would want to download SpeedTaxi which is an Uber-like app that will give you the best prices for your trips. These do only take cash so be sure to take out cash from your home country and exchange at the airport, or head over to the ATM.
An American bank will charge you foreign exchange rate fees and sometimes even a ‘Nonlocal ATM’ fee so if you can, download Wise where you will be charged less fees and you can easily exchange your USD to LEK for a smoother transaction.
Plenty of people will try to get you to go off-the-grid. They will give you their WhatsApp and suggest you contact them if you need any taxi services, rentals, or lodging. Personally, I’ve found this quite helpful but be careful of course.
My Take on the Comfortability for Black People
Current Black Population Numbers: 0/2 - The demographic percentage is based on country of origin and not ethnicity so this scale isn’t quite accurate. Albania currently holds a 91% Albanian population which is scheduled to change as more tourists seek to settle here.
Amount of Black People Seen: 1/2 - I have seen approximately three black people per week. As this is a Balkan country, it’s to be expected. I’ve added a point though, because when you do encounter other black people, it’s a touching experience.
Safety and Travel Ease: 2/2 - I have not once felt threatened or even scared to walk anywhere. Perhaps this comes from personal experience from living in mildly dangerous cities like Philadelphia and Atlanta, but no hairs are standing on my neck.
Black Self Care and Products: 0/2 - Actually this is a market you may want to tap into. I’m looking at you, entrepreneur.
Local Interaction: 2/2 - Albanian people are warm and welcoming. My interactions have been nothing but positive and genuine.
Overall the rating is a 5/10 level of comfort. This varies on travel experience and open-mindedness when coming to a Balkan country. The stares can be a stark welcome at first, but the more you get to know Albania, the more you learn to appreciate the culture.
International Comfortability for Black People Rating Scale
(per TWB’s rating scale)
Amount of Black and Afro People Seen: 0/2—Internationally speaking, Albania doesn’t hold a candle to other black spaces. In comparison to countries like the US, Brazil, Portugal, etc., there is certainly a lack of diversity.
Areas Black Population Numbers: 0/2 - Black people are scarce in this country. There are no black communities or neighborhoods and the demographics are not according to race, but country of origin which can vary.
Prevalence of Black History: 0/2 - Black history is almost nonexistent. When visiting museums and reading about history, black faces are missing.
Personal Feelings During Visit: 1/2 - Even with the lack of black presence, the country is quite peaceful. Getting over the stares, however, can be somewhat of a challenge.
Visibility of Signs and Artifacts of Inclusion (pride flags, all are welcome signs, black lives matter, etc): 0/2 - Though the signs are not present, the comfort is unspoken. Albanian people are nonjudgmental people and generally welcoming to all. This does come from interaction otherwise, the lack of visible inclusion would scream otherwise.
Overall, the International comfortability of Black People is 1/10. The Black community in Albania has a slow development but it’s not something that can’t be fixed. Internationally speaking, Albania's lack of diversity only shows room for growth and exploration. The locals are just as curious about us as we are about them.
Conclusion
Albania is a country to add to the list!
Sure, you'll need to pack your own hair products and maybe explain to a few curious onlookers where you're from, but that's part of the adventure. The stares become less uncomfortable when you realize they come from a place of genuine interest rather than judgment. And let's be real - how many places can you visit where you can go from sunbathing at the beach to hiking in the mountains in the same day?
For my melanated brothers and sisters thinking about visiting Albania - do it! Just remember to pack your essential beauty supplies, download SpeedTaxi, and come with an open mind. You might find yourself exchanging knowing nods with other Black travelers, sharing stories with friendly locals, and discovering that this little Balkan country has so much more to offer than what meets the eye.
Albania isn't perfect - no place is. But it's real, it's beautiful, and it's ready to welcome you, regardless of your skin color. And isn't that what travel is all about?
Thank you for your contribution Anaiis!
If you would like to be a guest contributor to our Traveling While Black blog, email us at travelingwhileblackseattle@gmail.com!
