Traveling While Black: Bellingham, WA
Welcome to our latest adventure in the Pacific Northwest! If you’ve been following us for a while, you know that we have a lot of episodes in Washington State, and this time, we’re taking you to Bellingham, a charming coastal city nestled between Seattle and the Canadian border.
The Overview:
We first visited Bellingham back in August 2020 as a surprise birthday getaway for Anthony. At that time, Traveling While Black was still newish, and our visit was during the pandemic. Fast forward to today, and Bellingham, like our show, has evolved. This time around, we returned to experience the city without pandemic restrictions, allowing us to dive deeper into its history, community, and the outdoors.
Bellingham is known for its beautiful scenery and easy access to outdoor activities, making summertime the perfect season to head to this city. With a new perspective and more freedom to explore, we were excited to see what had changed and how the city welcomes Black travelers today.
A Rich History:
Our journey through Bellingham wouldn’t be complete without delving into its history. Before Bellingham became the bustling city it is today, the area was home to the Coast Salish Peoples for centuries. It wasn’t until 1792 that George Vancouver named the area Bellingham Bay, setting the stage for the city’s eventual formation.
We were fortunate to connect with WWU Professor, Josh Cerretti, who shared fascinating insights into Bellingham’s past. The city's development was marked by the merging of smaller villages, but it wasn’t without its struggles. The competition between Fairhaven and Whatcom to become the dominant city is a story of stubbornness and eventual compromise that shaped Bellingham into what it is today. See more about the history on our YouTube episode.
However, Bellingham’s history isn’t just about names and mergers. Like many American cities, its growth was driven by industry, but this also brought challenges, including periods of exclusion and discrimination. Learning about these darker chapters from Professor Cerretti was eye-opening, especially as we contrasted them with the more inclusive atmosphere we experienced during our visit.
Drive Grade: Seattle to Bellingham
Driving to Bellingham from Seattle is a drive up Interstate 5 North, taking about an hour and a half (or closer to two hours with traffic). The drive offers some scenic views, especially as you approach Bellingham.
Here’s how the drive scored on our rating scale:
Quality of Views: 1/2 points - The views improve as you get closer to Bellingham, but they’re not the most spectacular we’ve seen in Washington. You’ll see the mountains during certain periods of the drive and pass by some rivers and lakes.
Roadside Amenities: 2/2 points - There are plenty of places to stop for gas, food, and other essentials on the way to Bellingham. You’ll pass the major city of Everett on your way there, which is a great spot for gas and food.
Route Simplicity: 2/2 points - Driving from Seattle the route is easy. You’ll drive up I-5 North with no confusing turns or detours.
Roadside Attractions: 1/2 points - There are not many notable attractions along the route, but we’ll give a point for the casinos you’ll pass on the way up.
Quality Parking Options: 1/2 points - Parking in Bellingham mostly requires payment, but since our hotel was centrally located to downtown, we were able to walk to a lot of destinations to avoid paying a lot for parking.
Overall, we rated the drive a 7 out of 10.
Level of Fun: Bellingham, WA
This time in Bellingham, we stayed at the same place as we stayed when we visited in 2020: Hotel Leo. This historic hotel, once the Leopold Hotel, continues to attract with its blend of old-world charm and modern amenities. From the Clark Gable-inspired theater to the library and fitness room, it’s a great base for exploring the city.
Bellingham is known for its outdoor activities, so naturally, we took a stroll on the South Bay Trail through Boulevard Park. This light hike offered us a chance to soak in the natural beauty of the area without too much exertion. The path was paved for most of it, which makes it assessible for many. The park has a rocky beach with a few benches.
Beyond nature, Bellingham offers a wealth of activities, from exploring local history to enjoying its vibrant bar scene, thanks to its college-town vibe.
Here’s how the city scored on our Level of Fun scale:
Quality of Activities: 2/2 points - With plenty of outdoor options and historical sites to explore, Bellingham offers something for everyone.
Demographic Applicability: 2/2 points - Bellingham is a college town, so there are plenty of options for everyone!
Affordability: 0/2 points - While cheaper than Seattle, Bellingham’s cost of living is still above the national average, and its housing market is notoriously expensive.
Quality of Restaurants: 1/2 points - We had a fantastic meal at Brandywine Kitchen, a Black-owned restaurant with fresh, locally sourced options, but we struggled to find other standout dining experiences in the city.
Special Events: 2/2 points - Bellingham’s calendar is packed with events, including the Downtown Sounds concert series we attended, which was a highlight of our trip.
Overall, we rated Bellingham a 7 out of 10 for Level of Fun.
Comfortability for Black People Rating: Bellingham, WA
During our first visit, Bellingham scored a perfect 5 out of 5 for comfortability for Black people. This time, with our new 10-point rating scale, we wanted to see how the city would fare.
Amount of Black People Seen: 2/2 points - We were pleasantly surprised to see more Black people this time! With the Black population numbers low, we still were able to meet the local Black population.
Black Population Numbers: 0/2 points - The Black population in Bellingham is still just 1%, so no points here.
Prevalence of Black History: 1/2 points - The city could do more to highlight its Black history, but thanks to our visit with Professor Cerretti, we learned about some significant sites, see more in our YouTube episode.
Artifacts of Inclusion: 2/2 points - We saw plenty of signs of inclusion, from Black Lives Matter signs to Pride flags, and even a monument acknowledging past injustices against Asian communities.
Personal Comfort Level: 2/2 points - We felt comfortable and welcomed throughout our visit, especially when interacting with local Black residents and those at Hotel Leo.
Overall, Bellingham scored a 7 out of 10 for comfortability for Black travelers.
Final Thoughts:
Bellingham remains a city that offers plenty of natural beauty and a decently welcoming atmosphere for Black travelers. While it has its challenges, especially in terms of affordability and visibility of Black history, our overall experience was positive. We hope this guide helps you plan your visit and experience all that Bellingham has to offer!
