Traveling While Black: Orcas Island, WA

One of the best things about living in Washington state is having access to some amazing islands. And if you watched our YouTube Episode 145, then you know that the San Juan Islands definitely fit in that category. For this experience, we took another trip to The San Juans Archipelagoes. This time to check out the second island of what we considered to be the main three; Orcas Island.  

Orcas island, which was originally inhabited by the Straits Salish peoples, surprisingly got its name not from the majestic animals that inhabited its surrounding waters, but rather from the Mexican Viceroy who financed the exploration of the area in the late 1700’s. Compared to the previous island we visited, San Juan Island, Orcas Island has some noticeable differences.

• The terrain. As opposed to San Juan Island, Orcas Island is more mountainous and forested.

• The population. While San Juan Island is more populated than Orcas Island, Orcas Island is slightly bigger. 

The islands were definitely different in those aspects. However, there would be another difference on Orcas we were told about that wasn’t so visibly seen. At least to us initially….

Prior to our previous trip to San Juan Island, we had heard that the islands overall were “magical”. Which turned out to be true based on our experience on San Juan Island’s Friday Harbor. But prior to this trip we were told that Orcas Island would in fact be where we would find the most magic. 

Hearing this really surprised us, because we didn’t think it could get more magical after our experience in Friday Harbor. With our interest peeked, we wondered what could it be that makes people consider Orcas Island to be more magical than the others? So using what we learned from our previous visit to the Islands, we booked our ferry tickets and headed off to find out the answer for ourselves. 

Drive Grade 

The journey to get from Seattle, WA to Orcas Island according to our GPS would take us around 3 hours and 2 minutes. Which included the hour and half drive to the ferry on Anacortes, WA. Taking into account the hour wait showing up at the recommended pre-departure time, the journey was about 4 hours total for us. Learning from the mistake we made our last visit to the San Juan Islands, we reserved our spot on the ferry weeks in advance making our ferry experience a lot better this time. 

Thanks to our preemptive booking, which again can be done up to 90 days in advance, we were able to get a later ferry time. Book your ferry ASAP!

The length of the ferry ride wasn’t bad either. Even with it lasting about an hour and a half, it still went by fast.

So, for our trip to Orcas Island, we give a 5 outta 5 for Drive Grade.

Level of Fun 

Once the Ferry landed we were excited to get onto Orcas to find out what was it about the island that makes people claim it to be the most magical of all the San Juan islands. But not before checking into the place where we would be laying our heads for the next couple of nights.

First, it is important to note that on Orcas Island you won’t find many traditional “hotels”. And a lot of visitors to Orcas Island come to camp at the many campsites on the island. For those not wanting to stay in a tent or camp at all; AirBnB’s and bed and breakfast type establishments more so fit the vibe of the island.

Even the historic Orcas Hotel which has been operating since 1904 feels more like a bed and breakfast. For us, we chose to stay at Otters Pond Bed and Breakfast. An adult retreat that offers 5 luxurious suites that are available year-round. 

On the East sound side of Orcas Island

Not only are the suites themselves very comfortable, the property also offers relaxing lounging areas both inside and outside with beautiful views of Otters Pond as well as wildlife. Oh yeah they even offer an outdoor hot tub, so you can really chill out while enjoying the view.

As soon as we checked in, we knew that we made the right choice for our stay on the island. On top of the amazing accommodations, we were also able to get a breakdown of the island before starting our search to understand Orcas magic.

For simplicity, Orcas Island can be divided up into two parts: East sound and West sound.

• The West sound is where you depart the Ferry. You will find a very small village with a few shops and restaurants.

• The East sound you will find the larger village with more shops and restaurants. 

Outside of their different vicinities, both East and West sound offered quite a bit. For example, both offered excellent options for food and drink. On the East sound side, we had dinner at two great places: Buck Bay Shellfish Farm and New Leaf Cafe. 

On the West sound, we enjoyed a delicious meal at Orcas Hotel Cafe. What’s interesting about this experience, is that the historic hotel where the cafe is located is reported to be haunted. We may have possibly encountered some of the actions of the supernatural resident during our dinner - spooky!

We had some great lunches and dinners on the island. As for Breakfast, we had the luxury of being served a different delicious breakfast every morning. Which lends to another great thing about Otters Pond Bed and Breakfast, in that it is owned and operated by a James Beard recognized chef; Amanda Zimlich. 

Other than great food and drink, both the East and West sound offer amazing outdoor options. Those options of course include an abundance of beaches. We must note, that it is on the West sound that you will find the only sandy beach on the island within the Deer Harbor area. 

Along with the beaches, Orcas Island offers a ton of camping and hiking options. Like Turtleback mountain on the West sound, and not one but two state parks on the East sound: Obstruction Pass State Park and Moran State Park.

Views from Mt. Constitution

On our trip we decided to check out the much bigger Moran State Park. A big reason why we chose this park over the other was the parks access to the islands highest point, Mt Constitution. We really enjoyed this mountain view experience, because while there are a multitude of multi use trails you can take to the top; you can also chose to simply drive to it. Which is exactly what we did. 

If you do choose to drive up, there is a parking lot along with a visitors center that includes some really clean public bathrooms. But of course the real payoff is the views which are enhanced by the stone watch tower. Which also offers some interesting exhibits within.

Even though we loved the shortcut to the payoff, we couldn’t visit Moran State Park without experiencing a real hike. So we found out about an often overlooked hike that offers another spectacular payoff; and even better it was decently easy.

That hike was to Cascade Falls. A moderate trail that takes hikers a quick, but peaceful hike through a beautiful forest. In less than half a mile, you come to a spectacular 45 foot waterfall. Which can be taken in, either at an upper or lower viewpoint. If you happen to be interested in more of a challenge, the trail also connects to more trails that lead to other waterfalls.

It is important to note that the parking around all of the trails within the state parks requires a Discover Pass. But there are plenty of pay stations around if you only need a day pass. Also, if you don’t have a boat or boating accessories there are plenty of places around Orcas Island that offer rentals. And renting doesn’t just stop with boats; visitors can also rent bikes, mopeds, and even cars. Cars may be a great option if you chose to take the fast ferry from Anacortes.

Yes we had a blast during our outdoor experience on Orcas Island, just like our previous experience on San Juan Island. And we can honestly say that we really enjoyed our time.

Still, at the end of it all we had to ponder, what was it that makes Orcas Island more magical than the other islands? And in asking, no one could articulate it for us. Not the locals who joined our table for our meal at Buck Bay Shellfish, not any of the locals at the local Farmers market, not even our host Amanda at Otters Pond. 

But when we thought deeper about our experiences it finally hit us; whether we were enjoying a meal at one of the restaurants, driving from place to place on the island, staring at a waterfall in Moran State Park, or even just lounging at Otters Pond Bed and Breakfast; we were always surrounded by nature. To the point we were always engulfed in it. Yes, it was magical. 

While we don’t know if we can say Orcas Island offers more or any less magic than San Juan Island; we can say that it is a different type of magic. How we sum it up is that San Juan Friday Harbor provides the type options that take you to experience the magic of the Archipelago, but Orcas Island provides options for the magic to come to you. 

Once again we definitely recommend a visit to the San Juan Islands, no matter if you chose the namesake island or Orcas Island.

In regard to this experience on Orcas Island; we give a 5 outta 5 for Level of Fun.

Comfortability for Black People

As for our comfort rating for Orcas Island, even though they don’t boast a Black mayor like Friday Harbor on San Juan Island; we still experienced the same comfortable feeling. Not only was the service at all of the establishments welcoming, the locals we encountered were extremely friendly. At Buck Bay Shellfish two ladies joined our table and engaged us in friendly conversations, as well as tips and recommendations for the island.  

The picture taken because we looked cute to an Orcas Island resident.

The friendliness of the locals continued at the Orcas Island Farmers Market, when one lady working her booth called us over to send us a picture she took of us while we were taking a picture of ourselves, simply because she thought we were cute. 

On our trip for the couple of days we’re on the island, we did see two other Black visitors and also saw some more around the ferry station both when we were arriving and leaving the island. 

In regards to the Black resident population, Orcas Island is less than 1% Black. While on the surface this could cause some reservations, but Orcas Island is still is a perfect example that the current lack of Black residents doesn’t automatically equate to an uncomfortable experience, and also a PERFECT reminder to why we do our show. 

We go to these places so we can encourage more of our people, and really more of anyone outside of the majority, to experience these amazing places despite the lack of familiar or diverse faces.

Also, we did notice quite a bit of Pride flags which visibly added to our comfort prior to interacting with the people.

All of these are reasons why for our experience on Orcas Island we give a 5 outta 5 for Comfortability for Black People. 

Watch our Orcas Island episode on YouTube!